Saturday, May 18, 2013

Ayudantes are like Short-Order Cooks



Here we spend quite a bit of time on buses. You may be surprised (if you haven’t been reading my blog) to find out they are just retired US school buses (Bluebird) customized with stickers, lights, streamers, and more.  

The way they work is as they are passing passengers on the street, the ayudante  (or driver’s helper) calls out the bus’ destination. If you want the bus to stop, you put your hand out, with your palm down, and move your hand in a scooping motion. We always confirm that we’re getting on the right bus by asking the driving if they’re going to our desired destination. If there is a seat, you grab it. The goal is to and get a seat near the front or rear of the bus to have easy access to get off. And if you’re going to be on it for a while, the window is definitely the desirable seat. And they squish the passengers in, two on the smaller seat and three on the larger seat. If you get the aisle seat it is likely you will have someone standing directly over you and when the ayudante passes through the bus they will be forced to dangle over you to let him pass. If there isn’t a seat, you stand and the ayudante will remind you of the empty space you left between you and the person next to you if you’re not practically touching them.

One of the responsibilities of the ayudante is to collect the fares. According to the guide books, the buses are about $1 per hour (or about 30-40 km). So far the seems pretty accurate. My long ride to my permanent site cost 120 córdobas, or a little less than $5 for about 5 hours. Normally we take buses around our area and it costs about 8-10 córdobas, so less than 50 cents.

The ayudante walks through the bus to collect fares. He makes change for most of the passengers with the large wad of bills he carries between his fingers and the dozens of coins he keeps in his palms. When the bus is crowded, he squuuueeeeeeeezes past the passengers in the aisle. Sometimes it’s so tight it is as if he is lying on top of you as he passes. Some of you have asked about the smell on the buses since it’s so hot, they buses are so crowded and there is no AC. Amazingly, we have yet to ride on a smelly bus. Nicaraguans take their appearance seriously so they are all freshly showered and neatly pressed in the morning.

The amazing thing about the ayudantes around here is that they don’t issue any tickets. When I went up north to my permanent site, I was issued a ticket on all the buses, whether I was riding 20 minutes or 5 hours. Around my training town, the ayudante remembers everything like a short-order cook. It is extremely impressive, especially because sometimes there are 100 people on the bus at one time and that doesn’t include all the people getting on and off.

So far they have always been men but they are of all ages. They remember who they have and haven’t collected money from. Only once have we ridden for free because the ayudante never came up to us to ask for the fare. And it was a short ride, less than 10 minutes. Since the fare is usually 20 córdobas or less and some people pay with C$200 and C$500 bills, he doesn’t always have enough change early in the trip. The first time I handed over a C$200 bill for a C$12 ride, I was convinced I would never get my change but halfway through the ride he came back with my exact change. He repeated what I had given him, the cost of my ride and the change I was to receive. You can also have him take your large or heavy items to the back or top of the bus and when it’s almost time for you to get off the bus, you remind him and he will take them off the bus for you. Since many people don’t’ have cars, people transport sacks of food, enormous baskets, furniture, etc. You can also ask them to tell you when you get to your stop and they will let you know. All of them have a unique whistle so the driver knows if he should stop or can pull away. Like a short-order cook, they are required to have an incredible short-term memory while juggling multiple tasks. 

After 10 weeks in country, I am still amazed!

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